![David Barrow and Sonya Cote, with their dog Willie, at Eden East Farm, in Bastrop, on February 27, 2021.]()
Sonya Cote cupped her hands around her eyes and peered into the empty building with a “For Lease” sign in the window, on Bastrop’s Main Street. It was a spring day in 2017, and among the shadows, she glimpsed tall ceilings and a brick fireplace. A shaft of light slanted in from the adjoining courtyard, and in the front room she could just make out a floor covered in exuberantly mismatched Mexican tiles. “Oh man, this is so cool,” she thought. The Austin chef was on the lookout for restaurant locations—chefs always are—and this one spoke to her. Cote soon returned with her husband and business partner, David Barrow, a filmmaker turned farmer. She called the building’s leasing agent in the Central Texas town of nine…
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